Five things I can do to better retain length (other than protective styling)

As my humble little hair journey continues, I find my focus slowly shifting from creating moisture, dealing with tangles, stopping breakage, etc. Right now I feel pretty good about the overall health of my hair. Now, I'd like to use my brain power to identify ways to improve retention. This wouldn't be such a big deal if I were disciplined about protective styling.

But since protective styling isn't my thing, I'm forced to think of alternate ways to create admirable lengths.

I'd like to document some ideas on what I can do to help promote retention overall but before I do, I must first identify the most beneficial aspects of protective styling to see if I can experience the benefits without having to constantly bun. Protective styling is so impactful for retention because it allows for these key benefits:

-Moisture retention

-Low manipulation

-Ends protection

With that said, here are some of the things I commit to doing to help in my overall retention strategy.

Trim - The other day, I invested in a fancy pair of left-handed hair cutting scissors at Sally's. Why? Because even though I don't like to do it, I am absolutely certain about the benefits of a much needed trim. Whenever I experience too much breakage (especially in my ends), I do a very small trim. Usually, this simple act can help curb my breakage almost instantly. Those who protect their hair on a constant basis don't have to deal much with weak split ends. By trimming, I'm eliminating the weak ends and giving my hair a chance to thrive.

Moisture-Protective stylers are constantly basking their hair in consistent moisture. I've baggied before and the results were quite amazing. It's no wonder that the women who do it are able to easily retain their length. The way I'm addressing this issue is to fight dryness as much as I can (and as frequently as I can). I do this by using a liquid leave-in concoction on a daily basis. Right after I use this moisture mist, I apply Gleau oil blend voila. Before, if my hair felt a little dry, I would let it slide a little before taking any action. Now I'm fully aware that dryness is the enemy of retention. As long as I am able to successfully manage my hair's moisture levels, I can rest assured that I'm doing the right thing to retain length.

Manipulation- Bunning, braiding, or wearing weaves not only protect the hair against the elements, it also protects us against ourselves. I'll be the first one to admit that frequent manipulation is the number one reason why I haven't retained more length than I could have. I realized that I've used my hair as a comforting tool. When I'm bored or stressed, I tend to play with my hair. Over time, all that constant fondling is robbing my hair of possible length. One of the ways I've tried to remedy this is to use scalp massage as a stress reliever as opposed to playing with the length. I think knowing what I do to contribute to my lack of retention is the first step. Once I'm aware, that's when I can start to make great progress.

Growth-Knowing that I'm at an automatic disadvantage with regards to retaining length, I've placed my focus more of promoting strong, healthy new growth. Scalp massages, juicing, silica all help promote growth. My intention is to grow more hair than I lose. That way, even if I haven't been doing well in the other areas, I'm still can make progress.

Do something different-Not too long ago, I was reading a book about doing one thing differently to get different results. The whole premise of the book was about how things change for us when we do even the slightest thing in a different way. There's always a different way to do something. For example, if I always comb my hair the same way every morning, then perhaps I could try:

• Using a different comb
• Combing with fingers
• Spraying comb with hair sheen to help minimize friction
• Moisturizing hair before combing
• Using flexirods to style hair so I don't need to comb

The list goes on. The point is that if I continue to do the same things, I will continue to get the same results. When I try something different, I can will impact how my hair looks/feels in the future. Even small tweaks in how we do things will make a difference. So today I decided to keep a satin scarf handy near my lounging couch. Whenever I decide to lay down, I'll place the satin over the pillows as a way of protecting my hair. Something small, but I know it will make an impact.

I'd love to hear ideas on what you do to retain length. Feel free to share on our discussion page.

Morning by Morning Part 3: Loaded Oatmeal

Part 3 of my "Morning by Morning" series features a breakfast that I absolutely love. I call it my loaded oatmeal. Because this mix has so many ingredients, I had to strategize a bit on how to consolidate some of them into one container. So I decided to manage my powders by placing them in a dispensing unit. When I saw this cake sprinkles shaker at the store I knew it would be perfect.



After taking it apart I realized that I would be able to store up to four different types of powdered products into one easy to use container.

First I added chia seeds into the mix. These little guys are packed with loads of nutrition such as omega 3s & 6, protein, fiber, calcium, potassium and more.

I also added some powdered fiber to the dispenser since I happen to have some available. This fiber mix tastes slightly sweet so it also helps to sweeten my oatmeal.

Along with the fiber I also included some powdered probiotics as well.


And viola! I still have one section open. I think I may try storing a green powder blend as well. This little shaker sames me tons of time when I'm preparing my oatmeal. Here you can see a pic of the finished product. There's my chia seeds next to macca root powder.

Now that I got that out of the way, I move on to my other ingredients. I put everything in this oatmeal including coconut oil, flax seed oil (tasteless), black strap molassess (iron), sliced almonds (vitamin e).

I start off by adding chia seed to the hot water. Chia expands in water so I put it in first to absorb what it needs to before I add the oatmeal. If I add the chia seeds last, they won't have enough time to soften.

Next I add the oatmeal, macca root powder, fiber/probiotics, oils, and almonds. I also put in a little black strap molasses which drastically changes the color of my loaded oatmeal while adding a nice taste to the mix.

Finally, I may add some dehydrated goji berries to the mix. They start to re-hydrate a little as the mix stand.


I usually don't eat this right away. I allow all the ingredients to get to know each other a little first. When I eat this mix, most of the individual components are undetectable. I was really worried about the macca root powder since it has such a distinct taste. In my loaded oatmeal, I can't taste the difference. Which makes this a great way to add any ingredients that I'm not keen on but I know will give me great benefits.

This meal is probably the most nutritious that I ever created. It's such wonderful a collaboration of healthy ingredients and essential nutrients. Plus, because of it's high fiber content, I'm pretty much full for most of the day when I eat this one bowl. A co-worker of mine saw me eating this blend every morning and was really curious. I told her everything I put in there and she kinda made a slight face. A week later, she told me she started eating oatmeal in the mornings for breakfast. If you are inspired by this post but can't get down with all the wacky ingredients, no worries. Just start with a simple bowl of oatmeal and add extra fruit or nuts. Maybe it's not oatmeal at all. Prior to my loaded oatmeal, I was adding almonds and chia seeds to my favorite cereal. What I love about this mix is how great I feel about what I was able to accomplish first thing in the morning. Even if I have a fast food dinner, I know that my body received an amazing dose of nutrition at the start of the day. I'm still on the lookout for other ingredients to add to my loaded oatmeal so if you have any suggestions, please share.

Morning by Morning Part 2: Protein Beauty Tonic

I'm continuing a series of 3 posts where I share some healthy options that I have implemented in the mornings to kick off my mornings. Often, it can be difficult to find nutritious meals during the day. Especially for those of us who eat 1 or 2 meals a day outside the home. Most of what is available to us isn't all that exceptional (nutritionally speaking). The truth is, if I were to say to myself, 'I want to have a meal that is packed with vitamins and antioxidents", I'd have to think long and hard before I came up with any viable options. That's why I chose to try and get a healthy meal in before I leave for the day.

Today, I'm sharing with you one of my favorite options. I buy a protein shake that already comes packed with lots of nutrients (according to the back label). But I figured, you can't get enough of a good thing so why not take it to the next level.

I start by opening the bottle and adding my own special ingredients. First, I mix a little flax seed oil into the drink. I love this because (unlike fish oils) flax seed has barely any taste at all! Plus it seems to be an ultra lite oil. After I mix in the flax seed, I shake up the bottle and there's no evidence of the oil. No separation, no oily taste, nothing. It's like I never even put any in there. Meanwhile, my drink is now chock full of omega 3 oils that my hair skin and nails will love.




Next I add my secret recipe for creating an ultra-powerful beauty tonic. You guys may already know about my affiliation with silica after learning about it's powerful benefits to our bodies. I purchased in gel form because I knew that I'd be more consistent mixing the silica in a liquid rather than taking the pill itself. When mixed in water, liquid silica tastes something like gritty chalk. When mixed in my protein shake, silica has no taste. The two make a perfect combination.


I'm one of those people that like everything spicy, even my drinks! Cayenne pepper is the third ingrediant I add to my tonic. Increased circulation is the name of the game and I want the protein, omega 3s and silica circulating all throughout my body as quickly as possible. That's why I always add ample cayenne. Unlike in my lemon water tonic the cayenne is a little less spicy when I add to this drink because the sugar content counter acts the capsaicin a bit. Plus it gives my drink a little bite and I like that....

These protein shakes come in a pack of four so I usually prepare all four at one time for the week. Sometimes I drink one daily, other times I have more than one in a day and there are times when I skip a day or even a week. There are no rules in this game we play, it's all about focusing on our progress. Can you ladies just imagine how beneficial a drink with vitamins, omega 3, and silica is to our health and beauty? I get all excited just thinking about it. As I said earlier, there are no rules so if you become inspired to create your own tonic feel free to experiment with what works for you. If constantly buying the pre-packaged protein shakes gets a bit too pricey, I switch up and substitute with almond milk which is loaded with vitamin e and other amazing awesomeness. If I get the almond milk, I just use my own bottle and add healthy booster just as I would normally.

I can't wait to share my part 3 of this series when I present the healthiest breakfast option I've created to date. Stay tuned....

"Rubbing my nails together gave me good results": A Relaxed Hair Health Reader Experience

About a year ago, I wrote a post about rubbing the nails together to promote healthy hair. After writing that entry, I was pleasantly surprised to receive several comments from folks who tried this technique and experienced great results. One such experience comes from a reader who contacted me yesterday telling me all about her nail rubbing experience.

Here's what she shared:

"I was reading about the posting you had about rubbing your fingernails together.
I tried it and it really works. My hairstylist who is Cuban told me about it from
a stylist from India that works with her. And I still do it it's like a habit
now lol. She told me that the women from India would rub their finger tips
together to make their hair grow. She also showed me how it was done. From then on I would do it constantly while sitting in the chair getting my hair done at the shampoo bowl, or sitting under the dryer etc. I would massage my scalp afterwards. It just became a habit. I would feel tingling in my finger then going through my arms then my scalp would get tingley then itchy but I would keep doing it 'til I was tired."

During our email exchanges, she mentioned how over the past five months while continuing this practice, she's gotten good results. She was even gracious enough to share some pics of her gorgeous hair.

For those of you hearing about this technique for the first time, the "science" behind the theory of rubbing nails for healthy hair is linked to the art of reflexology where parts of the body are stimulated to active and heal other, specific areas. If you take a look at this diagram, the finger tips are connected with the top of head and brain. Thus, by rubbing the finger tips (nails), you are able to reach and stimulate the head and scalp.


In her book, Hand Reflexology: Key to Perfect Health, Mildred Carter devotes a chapter to stopping hair loss, growing new hair, and prevent grays through the use fo Reflexology. She shared the advice of another famous reflexologist, Dr Joe Shelby Riley, to rub the fingernails together 2-3 times a day for around 5 minutes a session. We can further enchance the experience by being intentional and visualizing the scalp as we rub our nails together. I'd like to thank the reader who reached out and reminded us of this wonderful practice. I myself saw some great results whenever I was consistently rubbing my nails. Perhaps, I can pair this habit this to my scalp massage practice as my reader did to help me remain consistent.

Here are a couple of the comments I received from other believers in this process. They shared their feedback with me when I first posted on this subject:

Anonymous said...
Hi, I have been rubbing my nails for the past 3 months and I have noticed I don't lose as much hair as I used to. I am 27 years old and my hair started thinning after using hair dyes and perming my hair twice when I was younger. But this technique has helped me in just 3 months my hair has stopped falling a lot and my hair looks healthy/shiny compared to before when it was dry and weak. I had lost some of my baby hairs but even that has come back. I realised this after my mother noticed that my hair doesn't look as thin as it did 3 months ago. I have also changed my diet, which means a lot of fruits and veg is involved, I make sure I drink 2 litres of water daily, massage my scalp for 5 minutes with my finger tips everyday and I do yoga everyday. All this is helping internally therefore I feel it's showing on the outside. Do try keep it up as I stopped few years ago and the hair thinning started showing it's ugly face. It's only after I realized how much I want my thick hair back I have kept it up.
Even I wanted quick results, but you have to be patient and keep it up.

December 21, 2010 11:07 AM


Anonymous said...
Hello there,

I've done this for quite a while, but I've always had great hair even when not doing it. I'm 28 and male, from Ireland. My hair was already Jet-black (always has been) but I am starting to see a blue'ish tint to it which I had when I was younger (around 20ish).

When I was younger I needed my hair cut every two weeks and my nails cut every other day because it grew so fast, it's slowed down as I've gotten older but since I've started doing this again (around 3 months ago) the exact same thing is happening, I'm needing to cut my hair at least once a month and my nails twice weekly.

I can't exactly tell you HOW this works, all I can see is that you will NOTICE considerable improvements. Trust me on this.

I rub my nails when I'm on the bus going into work (10-15 minutes) then at night before nodding off to sleep (around 20-25 minutes). I also rub my nails when I am stationary and not using my hands (I've done this since I was a kid)

Would love to hear about a blonde person doing this, and see'ing if their hair gets darker

Marty

October 10, 2010 8:06 AM

Which came first the deep condition or the shampoo? My dry deep conditioning experience

Do you guys remember my review of Hair Fixer way back when? During the six weeks I used the product, I had to forgo using conditioner per their usage instructions. After that experience I learned to place a higher value on the pre-poo step. Since I couldn't deep condition as normal, I had to amp up my pre-poo by using higher quality product. Ever since I've paid close attention to maintain a pretty healthy pre-shampoo regimen but this time I decided to take it a step further.

Instead of using conditioners like Long Term Relationship, etc for my pre-poo, I decided to go all out and conduct a full deep conditioning (pre-shampoo) session. On dry hair, I applied a mix of my favorite high quality conditioners like Biolage, Silicon Mix Protein de Perla, Aveda Damage Repair, and other heavy hitters. I also added a little Argan oil and popped open some vitamin e capsules into the mix. Then I proceeded to part my dry hair into small sections and applied liberally.

Next I finished it off as I would any deep conditioning session, with heat. After 30 minutes or so under the dryer, I jumped in the shower and proceeded to cleanse the hair with WEN. Just before I jumped out of the tub, I reapplied some conditioner to the hair and allow it to sit on the hair for a couple of minutes before the final rinse with cold water. After that rinse, I proceeded with styling. The coolest part about this process was that I only had to jump in the shower only once which is way more efficient than my traditional way of doing things.

So the question I have to ask myself is whether or not this method is more beneficial to the hair or is the time savings the only benefit. To better answer this question one has to look at what happens when the hair becomes wet. Water is easily absorbed into our hair strands. In fact, our hair is so attracted to water that it'll readily pull water from the air. That's why we're constantly fighting against frizz in humid weather. The hair strand can expand as much as 30% when exposed to water. When I think about this swelling effect water has on the hair I ask myself, "is it possible that the absorbed water could be taking up valuable space in my strand that should be granted to my conditioner?"

If that's the case, then it would make sense to apply conditioner to dry hair, then utilize heat to open the cuticle layer, and allow the deep conditioning process to happen. I can tell you from my experience that I had less hair loss this wash then in previous sessions. Not only did I realize some great benefits during the wash, I also enjoyed great feeling hair throughout the week. Dry deep conditioning requires more product then normal deep conditioning. I found myself having to apply ample conditioner just to saturate the hair. In the long run, I'm sure it'll be a little more expensive since I use less conditioner during my normal routine. But I think the results will speak for themselves. You should also check out a post a while back sharing the details of a study that supports the importance of applying product to the hair prior to the wash for added protection to the cuticle layer.

Some might be thinking, "isn't having lots water in the strand a good thing?" Yes it can be a good thing but remember that water evaporates. If I can help it, I'd rather have the deep conditioning ingredients swelling up the strand, no just water alone. The key to making this process successful is using heat to open the up cuticle layer so the conditioner can truly penetrate. Once the cuticle is open, your hair is ready for 100% conditioner penetration. No additional water taking up any valuable cuticle space.

I'll be using this method over the next several weeks to see if the benefits are lasting. I really hope this will turn into a permanent change in my regimen. The thought of saving time on wash day and the possibility of a deeper conditioning process gets me all excited. Anyone tried this technique before?

Spotlight on healthy hair: Beautiful Flower!

I've been drooling over this woman's hair for the longest so I finally reached out to her to find out more about what creates her healthy hair. Check out my interview with Beautiful Flower!

You shared on your blog that you were inspired by some of the greats on LHCF including Syvler77, what were some of the tips you learned that really helped you in your journey?

I based my regimen over the years by mixing and matching the techniques of my relaxed legends. I think some of the main tips I have learned are:
- Air drying doesn’t always look pretty but it will keep the hair on your head
- Make braidouts and buns your default
- Stretch relaxers at least 3 months at a time
- Moisture is your friend
- Low to no heat but sometimes a little heat can make your hair feel a lot better

Your hair is super thick, are you doing long term stretches? When you relax, are you using a milder formula to texlax? How do you maintain your thickness

My only and last long term stretch was before this past relaxer and it lasted from November to May (24 weeks). I usually do 3 months at a time. I think I will do another 24 week stretch.
I have always had thick, dense hair but it has increased in thickness since starting my hair journey. Air drying, stretching, moisturizing, detangling properly, and heat reduction makes a difference in hair density. I suggest going for a blunt cut then adding layaers after you’ve reached your hair goal to add dimension for those with thinner hair. Also your ends will get thin over time so I dust with every relaxer and do a good self-trim once a year. If you can find a stylist you trust to trim you, I recommend going to that person. They can see what you cannot.
I do relax with a regular strength lye relaxer always. I do not consider myself texlax’d. Why? I relax my hair in a way to keep the hair stronger by not killing all my protein bonds. I also fear burning my scalp so I prefer to smooth and rinse as quickly as possible. I don’t relax to keep it thick but it does help maintain volume. If you’ll like at a strand of my hair it’s not straight nor does it have any particular wave/curl pattern. I don’t know if that makes sense. LOL.

Based on the photos from you blog, you don't seem like a consistent protective styler. How do you wear your hair day to day?

I don’t. LOL! But my defaults are braidouts (pinned up, straight-down, half-n-half), buns (all kinds), and ponytails. I do more braidouts now than anything. When I was Mid-back and shorter, I did mostly buns. I do ponytails on old straighten hair or old braidout hair. I have been rollersetting a lot lately so I rock ponytails then morph to braidouts like today. I also LOVE Ez-combs so I wear these alot now. I have 6 and they are super cute and easy to use.

If you're stranded on a desert island. What three products do you take with you?

It would be a good shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in. Currently that would be:
-Crème of Nature Detangling Shampoo
-Queen Helene Cholesterol Conditioner
-Silicon Mix Intensive Leave-in Conditioner (this stuff is AMAZING)
If I could add three tools: a medium tooth comb, scarf, and perm rods.

What's has worked for you to help retain length? Have you dealt with excessive breakage?

I have not dealt with excessive breakage since I started my journey. Regular Breakage? Yes…everyday. I manage it with maintaining my protein-moisture balance. I do that by doing moisture during the week with leave-in and co-washing, a deep condition overnight once a week, and one protein infused conditioner on the weekend. This typically keeps me in check.
I also retain length with low to no heat styles. I may blow dry once a month and flat iron once every 2 to 3 months. DETANGLING PROPERLY and GENTLY. This cannot be stressed enough. This will help or break (literally) your hair progress. Use a proper comb, a lot of leave-in, work from bottom to top, work in sections, and be patient. And I use leave-in of some sort EVERYDAY. If I flat iron, I use a serum EVERYDAY.

Do you support healthy hair nutritionally? If so, how?

I do but it’s not intentionally. I work out 4 days a week and have been doing this off and on the last 6 years. Protein drinks really help nails and hair. I also do not eat a lot of junk but I don’t deny myself either. I practice moderation. I do not take vitamins and I don’t drink as much water as I should. I’m getting better though.

How do you maintain moisture on such a thick head of hair?

I moisturize EVERYDAY and I pay attention the ends. And a lot of times, if my hair feels dry, I just hop in the shower and wet my hair. I love water on my scalp.

Any setbacks?

Twice. It was more like ripped out hair in sections. I tried Curlformers once and never again. My hair was too thick and too many textures for that. Another time I shampoo’d my hair after coming out of a 2 month weave without detangling. BIG NO NO. My hair knotted and matted like nothing before. It took 2 days and a lot of conditioner to remove all the shed and knotted hair. I lost a lot of hair (good and shed hair) but because of patience, conditioner, and a rat tooth comb, I keep a lot of hair too.

Before your recent trim, you were a member of the waist length club, was it like everything you imagined it would be?

Yes and no. Waist length is long to most everyone that sees you and you can play with the length but hip length is yummy. It felt nice to have the hair grazing the bottom of my back after a wash. My air dried hair hung a lot lower and my braid-outs looked crazy long. I am shooting for hip length again. I hope to be there again by the end of this year or early next year and I’ll be maintaining that length.

What are the three pieces of advice for someone just starting in or struggling with their hair journey?

- RESEARCH. I spent hours and days and months researching about hair, hair science, moisture, protein, products, and techniques. Research the regimens of people that have the length you want. Try it out. If it works, keep it. If it doesn’t, dispose of it. Ultimately, you’re making your own regimen. It will take time and your regimen will be ever changing but you’ll find what works if you don’t give up.
- Products only make your hair manageable; they do not grow your hair. Find products that make your hair feel soft, light, strong and smell good.
- Patience. The progress is coming. If it’s not, look at the regimen of some one that has your goal and see what you may be missing. Give your regimen 6 months at least to decide your process isn’t working.

Check out beautifulflower's blog for more about her beautiful hair.

Could this be the future of chemical relaxers?

I was on Youtube the other day waiting for my video to load when all of the sudden an ad comes on with several women talking about a new relaxer system from Soft Sheen Carson. I rarely look at box relaxers on the store shelves so this product may not be all that new after all. What really struck me was how loud the message of a "new relaxer system with a low pH that doesn't dry out the hair or promote breakage."

Their whole thing was that a lower pH means less damage to the hair. Which in turn could mean more shine and healthier hair overall. Just so you know, I haven't tried this relaxer and this isn't meant to be an endorsement in any way. I have no idea if this relaxer kit actually lives up to its claims. I was very excited, however, about the meaning of this commercial. To me, this marks the beginning of a new era in relaxed hair care. For decades, women blindly relaxed their hair and suffered incredibly at the hands of damage from these products. Now the focus on healthier hair, along with the choice by thousands of women to sport natural hair, have forced product manufacturers take notice and respond accordingly.

In order to stay in business, companies will have to compete to create the healthiest possible straightening system or quickly become obsolete. I'm enjoying the fact that relaxer manufactures are leveraging the online hair renaissance and learning about the healthy hair care needs of women with textured hair. I think progress will be slow but it'll take just one brand to break out with a new (safe) technology and soon that will soon become the standard. I'm looking forward to the day when relaxers have the power to infuse fatty acids, proteins and ceramides into the strand immediately after the straightening process. Wouldn't it be awesome to have a relaxer that fills in the damaged areas of the strand (while the cuticle layer is lifted) so the hair is actually stronger and healthier after the process and beyond? I will keep my eyes and ears open for new relaxer formulations that will change the game as we know it. I'm not just talking about adding plant oils I'm talking about a new "smart" relaxer system that will take our hair care to the next level.

Sigh, a girl can dream.....

How It's a 10 Miracle w/Keratin & Biolage Strengthening Masque combined together to create hair perfection!

There I was, minding my own business the other day, when I received the following text message:



You could imagine how pleasantly surprised I was to receive such a glowing review so I immediately responded back to find out more. I did what anyone in my position would do....I send her a reply text and requested photographic evidence. Minutes later we were having an actual phone conversation and she proceeded to tell me how excited she was about the loveliness levels of her hair. When she visited the beauty store, she intented to buy Biolage’s Cera Repair after reading my battle post but couldn’t find it (cera repair is sold only online). Instead she picked up the Intensive Strengthening masque which also contains ceramides. She also read my review of It’s a 10 Leave-in and was also on a mission to pick it up but noticed the Keratin version of the same product and opted to upgrade.

I’ve got to preface the rest of my post by mentioning that this individual is not your typical “hair fanatic” like the rest of us. I’m sure she not a member of any of the hair boards and probably doesn’t read any hair blogs. Truth is, she probably only browsed through my blog because we’ve known each other personally for years.

With that said, I tried to be cautious when asking for pictures to share on the blog ‘cause I know that not everyone is comfortable with that kind of thing. Surprisingly she quickly agreed. Not only did she share some pics with us but she also talked a little about what she did to achieve that amazing result.

So without further adieu, here is what she described to me via email:

Hey Nadege,

Round 2...same Great Results! Almost no hair shedding...not only does my hair feel and look incredibly soft and silky, this deep conditioning regimen is also really strengthening my hair, too. I've attached pics, but trust me when I say, my hair looks so much better in person - I just wish I were a better photographer so I could really showcase what these products are doing for my hair. Personally, I think any good conditioning products may do as long as you leave it on your hair for at least 30 mins, but here's an overview of what I used:

While showering I used:
Dove Nutrive Therapy Shampoo - washed and rinsed twice; 3 mins

After showering, I applied:
It's a 10 Miracle Leave-In Plus Keratin - lightly sprayed all over hair and massaged through hair and scalp.
Matrix Biolage Intensive Strengthening Masque - massaged all over hair after applying the It's a 10 product. Placed a plastic cap on head and heated hair w/blow dryer for 3-5mins (will skip this step next time to see if results change)
Let the product sit on hair for another 45mins (this is the most important step I think)
Rinsed hair with luke warm water first, then finished rinsing w/cold water
Blow dryed hair, and applied a little Biosilk before using a flat iron to style....
And Voila - the soft and silky feel of my hair was about 90% comparable to when I go to professional salons! Once I master blowing and flat ironing, you guys aren't going to be able to tell me nothin' :o)

Thanks for the ceramide recommendation. Keep up the blog - it's working miracles...I'm living proof!



I’m really excited for her. When we talked on the phone I couldn’t stop smiling as I visualized how amazing her hair looked. I’m so glad she reached out to me because she actually introduced me to two new amazing products. I purchased them last weekend and had a chance to test drive. I won’t say much in this post but I will tell you that I was all smiles. In a later post, I’ll recreate her process with these two products and tell you how it goes.

By the way, I love hearing about success stories so if you have a great story to tell about products you’ve tried from this blog, or even products I haven’t heard about before, feel free to send me an email, leave a comment, or post it on our fan page.

Double the amount of ceramide in your hair. Here's the secret!

I'm always super excited whenever I learn something new in the world of healthy hair. Right now I'm just smitten about results of a study conducted by the University of Technology in Thailand in 2005. This study was on the effects of eucalyptus extract on the properties of the hair and scalp.

In the study, a lotion solution containing 3% eucalyptus extract was used twice a day, on the scalp, of test subjects, for several months. This was done to test the effects of consistent use of eucalyptus extract both on the hair and scalp. The study concluded that, with 3 months of consistent use, the amount of ceramide in the scalp increased. The skin on the scalp of the test subjects also improved form the use of the lotion. This was observed by increased moisture retention levels on the scalp.

But here's where the good stuff comes! By applying the eucalyptus lotion on the scalp consistently, the test subjects experienced noticeably healthier hair. The scientists measured this by first having beauticians analyze the subjects for visible signs of health such as gloss, luster, bounce, etc. Almost all of the women in the study were observed to have visibly healthier looking hair.

The hair was then measured for elasticity. After measuring elasticity levels, they determined that with consistent use of eucalyptus, elasticity and luster improved. Here's the kicker, the same amazing results did not occur when the lotion was applied to the length of the hair . Their theory is that since noticeable changes didn't occur when the solution was used on the hair, the change must be taking place in the composition of the hair (i.e when the hair is being formed). So they measured the new growth of the study participants to find that the ceramide levels in the hair increased by 120%. Lemme repeat this one more time.....after 3 months of use, the test subjects increased ceramide levels by 120%! The article concluded that "the eucalyptus extract drastically affected the hair fiber properties, improving bending elasticity and luster by a change in the hair metabolism." Hence, the "improvements in the hair properties by the eucalyptus extract were the results of some change in the hair formation process." So essentially, by adding eucalyptus extract to the scalp, you are literally impacting how healthy your hair grows in. How exciting is that?!

Last year was when I first discovered ceramides. For those of us who aren't familiar with ceramides allow me to help shed some light. Ceramides pretty much act like the "sealer" that helps keep the cuticle layer in tact. The cuticle layer is what protects our hair from potential damage. I can almost guarantee you that if you were to look at various strands damaged hair under a microscope, one thing they'd all have in common is the degradation of the cuticle. The cuticle layer protects and the cuticle layer helps preserve moisture. Without it, our hair is vulnerable.

So let's wrap this up by stating the obvious. First off, ceramides are essential and, secondly, we negatively impact ceramide levels if/when we use relaxers. I have this (unproven) theory that if we start off with the healthiest hair imaginable prior to relaxing, then give our hair a bit of an advantage to preserving the health once the process is completed. The test subjects in the study were Japanese so their natural hair already contained adequate amounts ceramides. With that said, they were still able to take it to the next level by doubling their natural ceramide amounts. My guess is that hair with twice as much ceramide protection may fare better during the touch-up process.

What does this all mean for you? I say, go quickly out into the world and pick up some eucalyptus oil--stat! Please note that the test subjects used a lotion with only 3% solution to be effective so I don't want you guys using this stuff straight on so you can avoid any possible scalp irritation. Learning about these results further supports my method of using $2.00 spray bottles for applying essential solution to the scalp. Those of you who are consistent scalp massagers, adding a little eucalyptus to your carrier oil kicks it up a notch!

Now if you'll excuse me, I'm off to mist my scalp with some eucalyptus.

Check out the details of the full study here.

The "dry" co-wash: my way of circumventing the system

Lately there have been some random thoughts and ideas running through my mind that I thought I'd jot down on e-paper. This blog has become as powerful to my journey as my good ole' fashioned hair journal so please be patient with me as this post may not be as structured as what you may be used to but will serve more as a sounding board than blog post.

As I'm always thinking and pondering on what I can do to make my hair routine better, one word comes to mind-"co-washing." This is the process of "washing" the hair with conditioner only. In recent past I've failed miserably in several attempts at air drying. Proper air drying techniques, in my opinion, is the peanut butter to the co-wash's jelly. The two just go hand in hand. I can't imagine washing, detangling, and roller setting 3 or 4 times a week after a co-washing. It just doesn't make good business sense. So because of this, I became content with washing every weekend and making the most of it.

Well lately, my work schedule has become so hectic that I have to now utilize my weekends to take care of random stuff that I would during the week if I wasn't coming home from work long after sunset. Since less time is available to me on the weekends, I've now adapted my wash routine to a bi-weekly schedule. I've only done this 2 or 3 times now but I've discovered some pros and cons to washing less frequently. Some of the pros include, more time to other stuff on the weekend and less hair lost from roller set manipulation since I'm cutting down the frequency. Cons so far include, increase risk of damage if the moisture and strength levels in the hair aren't replenished in a timely manner. Along with that are the scalp issues that can occur if with less frequent washings.

So I'm weighing the two sides and considering my options. This past week my mind was working overtime to figure out a way to receive the benefits of co-washing especially when I don't have the time. They say that necessity is the mother of invention. What I needed was to get the benefits of co-washing (moisture retention, less breakage, etc) without going through the entire process. The solution I tried this week involved a small spray bottle with an excellent mist, some spring water, and a cheapie moisturizing conditioner. Without measuring I combined the water and conditioner (probably twice as much water as product) into my spray bottle. By combining the two into one bottle, I'm incorporating two of the main ingredients in a co-wash (water and conditioner) into one. Because I'm not undergoing the process in the shower with all the manipulation that goes along with it, I get to enjoy the benefits without experiencing the possible setback that comes with not air drying properly. So this week I bunned daily and all I did was refresh my hair with my co-wash mix then tie a silk scarf to allow the product to do it's thing. Each time I did this step my hair was softer to the touch and my bun felt more moisturized. I like to this of this as a "dry" co-wash because it doesn't require the full emersion into water. Now that I know this technique is a viable alternative for me to co-washing, I'll tweak and adjust it until it's near perfect.

I learned a valuable lesson throughout this process. Before, I wouldn't even consider co-washing because time constraints and such. But at the same time, I was giving up the good that came with co-washing. So now I will question myself as to whether healthy hair techniques that work well for others and, didn't work so well for me in the past, could be modified to meet my needs. A whole new world has opened up to me with regards to what is possible with my regimen and learning from others. Nothing is off limits!

Thirsty? Go for ulta-hyrdation with coconut water!

The last few days have been really hot in my area. Because of this, my thoughts are now focused on how to stay as hydrated as possible as spring and summer begins to roll in. I feel like I have a hard enough time taking in adequate amounts of fluid on a daily basis. Now I've got to take my fluid intake to the next level.

Instead of lugging around tons of water with me, I've decided to consider "working smart" in the area of hydration. Along with drinking an adequate amount water, I've also included another super-drink to my routine. This beverage is the newest craze in healthy drinking although it's been around for centuries. The drink I'm speaking of is none other is coconut water.

In recent times, we've seen an increase of healthy available beverages such as pomegranate and acai juice. These juices offer us lots of good stuff like wonderful antioxidants but I'd also like to tell you all about the exciting and pretty amazing benefits of coconut water. When I did my research online I learned that coconut water is a "super hydrator" and contains minerals and electrolytes similar to that which is already present in the human blood. This means you can quickly replenish the nutrients lost from strenous activity or simply from sweating. Coconut water is so powerful that it's been used introvenously in emergency situations. And unlike some sports drinks out there, coconut water is an all natural solution to avoiding dehydration.

Although water is the ultimate drink of choice some folks are simply not into water all that much. So instead they opt for unhealthy alternatives such as juice, coffee or soda. If drinking a ton of water isn't your thing, I'd like to invite you to consider drinking coconut water as a second option. I've heard it called the purest liquid second only to water. The coconut has tons of wonderful properties such as being antibacterial and anti fungal. When you drink the clear fluid you benefit. Some say this refreshing beverage is beneficial for those who suffer urinary tract infections, kidney stones, and various other types of ailments.

Because of its nutritious properties, some companies have repackaged this age old drink and turned it into the latest craze in super-nutrition. In fact, celebrities like Madonna, Demi Moore and Matthew McConaughey have all invested in Vita Coco, a company that's bringing coconut water into the mainstream. Vita Coco is a little rich for my taste. Instead, I just reach for coconut water in cans at my local ethnic grocery store or at Walmart. I've decided to leverage this ultra healthy drink help me in my hair journey. One main reason is because coconut water contains more potassium than a banana, but without the high sugar levels. Our hair can suffer if we're not getting enough potassium. High salt diets can contribute to excess sodium to build up around the hair follicle. When this happens, beneficial nutrients aren't absorbed properly which could lead to hair loss. I'm also challenging myself to remain hydrated to help manage dandruff and other issues related to not taking in enough fluids.

Another thing I really like about coconut water is how well it masks the gritty taste and texture of the silica gel I've been taking. I just add a tablespoon to my glass of coconut water and I'm good to go! Next time you're out and an about, why not pick up a few cans of coco water as an alternative. At around $0.99 cents a can, it's really affordable for all the benefits you'll receive.

30 days later: Here's my experience with taking silica

As of this moment, over a month has passed since I first began taking silica. As I mentioned in my previous post, I felt like I began experiencing positive results very quickly after I began taking the supplements. So now more than 30 days have gone by and I'd like to share an update of the benefits I've received from incorporating silica into my regimen.

Immediately after introducing silica into my routine, I paused my juicing practice. So for the past 30 days I haven't juiced once for fear of not being able to identify where my results where coming from. This way I could be confident that any benefit I received was directly attributed to silica. When I made my first silica purchase, I picked it up in pill form because that was all I could get my hands on. Shortly afterwards I placed an order online for silica gel so I could take this whole silica thing to the next level. Once the gel was in my clutches, it became my main focus. I used the pills whenever consuming the gel wasn't convenient like when I was traveling or on days when I simply forgot to take the gel. On a few occasions, I would even "double up" and take a pill and the gel in the same day.

So now, a month later, I'm ready to talk about my experience. As I mentioned in my first post, I immediately experienced a benefit to my skin. My highly acne prone skin shifted suddenly the moment I introduced silica to my system. Since then I've had to deal with only 1 pimple. Not one breakout......one pimple. Incidentally, that pimple came only after I introduced a new moisturizer into my regimen. Once I stopped using that product, I suffered no additional breakouts. So to me, even if I experience no benefits to my hair, I will still use silica to promote clear, healthy skin. I will also add that I ordered a moisturizer that has silica and aloe vera gel as it's main ingredients. It's moisturizing without any greasiness at all. Although this has helped to support my clear skin regimen, I think it works secondary to the benefits I get to taking it internally.

Not only has my skin improved greatly. I am also happy to announce that I am now the proud owner of a new set of fingernails. What I mean to say is that silica has truly made an impact on my nails. Normally, I don't do anything special to care for my nails so they grow at their own rate and break pretty frequently. In the past, you'd rarely see me sporting lengthy nails on all of my fingers. Nowadays, I'm filing them down to keep them at a manageable length. Although I'm excited about this, I'm also a little bummed that I now have to include nail care into my maintenance routine. Before this my nails stayed short and didn't require any attention. Now I have to keep them filed, even, and neat. It's a great problem to have.

So now let's get to the meat of our conversation. How has silica impacted my hair? My last touch-up was mid February (not long after my first take of silica). Currently I have a nice new crop of growth coming in. That's all good and well but I can't say for certain that my hair is growing any faster (although I do feel like I have quite a bit of new growth). What I will say is how pleased I am with the quality of growth. My virgin growth isn't as tightly coiled as before. For the first time in as long as I can remember, I can brush my edges with sonia hakuk brush and they actually listen. They actually listen. If things keep going as they are, I should be able to add at least a couple of weeks to my stretch (if not longer).

Again, this is just a mini-update to acknowledge the good I've received from giving my body this most essential mineral. At this point I'll be re-instituting juicing back in my daily grind and further reap the benefits. If I were compare my experience taking silica versus when I was taking high doses of biotin regularly, I'd say that both supplements impact my new growth rate. Both have the ability to grow my fingernails. If I remember correctly, biotin makes my nails a bit stiffer, stronger. Biotin gave me longer lashes. I'm not experiencing this as much as with silica. Biotin also grew the hair all over my body. Growing a "stache" and toe knuckle hair is not a good thing (sorry for visual). Silica impacts the tone and clarity of my skin. There's just something about it that my skin likes. Overall, I'm pleased with the results and I'm really looking forward to see where I am 6 months with regards to the overall quality of my skin. So all in all, I would call silica a great overall beauty supplement. It's a must have. For those of you who are looking to find out where you can get silica from food sources. Make sure you include lots of leafy greens, cucumbers, brown rice, oats and other whole grains, beets, and most other root vegetables.

Here's an interesting article on silica for additional reading.

Inspiration: Nine months + Healthy Regimen=Fabulous Progress

I get really excited when I hear from readers of the blog who say that my random hair rantings have helped them out on their journey. So you can imagine my elation when LHCF member Nix08 sent me an email pictures of the incredible progress she made in just 9 short months! I was so inspired by her success that I asked her to share her regimen with me so I can share you! She was gracious enough to talk in detail about how she was able to quickly achieve her results. So without further adieu......

When did you begin your hair journey and what inspired you to get serious about your hair care?

"I began my hair journey June 17 2010. Earlier that year I started following ‘Jenna’s Victoria Beckham blog’ after doing a fashion overhaul. Her blog lead me to ‘The Girl in a Cashmere Daze’ which lead me to your blog, You inspired me to get serious about hair care. For a few months I'd drop by and read the current postings. Then you posted about the girl at the party you went to who's hair you were in amazement with. From that post it dawned on me that you felt that anyone could grow their hair. It wasn't based solely on DNA or being mixed etc – how was I to know any different. I then went back, printed and probably read every one of your posts, with a highlighter! Your blog became my guide. I had recently relaxed my hair so I went and got a journal for my hair and a trim.

Again on your recommendation I picked up a Sedu, Biolage Cera repair, Biolage daily leave in tonic and a satin cap and a few other items I'm sure. After my first Pre poo/DC with the cera repair, blow dry and flat iron with the sedu I went outside and my neighbour commented on my hair! I'm an excitable person as is but I was downright giddy...so much so that I emailed you to say thanks!! You were gracious enough to entertain my madness and gave me further advice...of which I printed off and put in my journal. You said that the key was to focus on the basics (moisture, strength and stimulation). At the time I wasn't about protective styling so you did warn that things would likely go slower as a result...I'm not a very patient person so within days/weeks I started wearing a low manipulation style...front puff with the back up in a claw clip. I joined LHCF and hairlista and continued to read any and everything I could find on hair care, including re-reading your posts now with even more understanding.

Looking back what was the biggest change in your routine from before to now?

The biggest change would be that there was now an actual routine. I would dread wash day!! I now pre poo which I never did, DC which I never did, moisturize and seal and gently handle my hair both of which I never did.

What are you doing daily/weekly to retain length?

Daily - I focus on maintaining moisture with nightly M&S (moisturizing and sealing), also mid day if my hair is out. I keep my hands out of my hair and wear low manipulation styles majority of the time (that won't be the case for too much longer. But I do plan on investing in some silk blouses – is that taking it too far – I think NOT … hehe ). Also taking my multivitamin for health but as you indicated it also benefits hair.

Weekly - I ensure a balance of moisture and protein, stimulate my scalp, maintain a neutral PH level and handle my hair like fine silk

What do you think is the greatest contributor to the health of your hair?

The greatest contributor to the health of my hair would probably be an understanding of the science behind healthy hair. I've read so much and I’ve been so bewildered as to how ignorant I was about hair that now everything that I do to my hair and every product that I use has a reason behind it: moisturize, strengthen or stimulate.

What advice would you give to someone new to their hair journey?

Think of your hair journey as a course - it takes about a semester to understand the science, the what's and why's of it all, to get your products in order and your routine down. Patience is key with a hair journey but knowledge is fundamental. Read, read and read some more. Some things you will have to experience to fully understand, for example; the moisture/protein balance...I had to get moisture overload to understand what 'mushy' felt like, I had to get protein overload to know when I'd used too much... when I finally got the balance I understood the result of a wet strand test. If you pull and your hair breaks that is dryness or too much protein. If you pull and your hair stretches like chewed gum, that's too much moisture. However, if you pull and your hair springs back like a rubber band, that's Balance!
I think educating yourself on the science helps prevent setbacks....anyone starting their journey now has tons of information at their fingertips and lots of testimonials of people that they can learn from to achieve maximum success and to learn from their mistakes so you don’t have to make too many of your own.

Regimen?
I’m often tweaking as I do love product and playing with my hair but I do have the fundamentals down. I think I probably do a lot to my hair and it likely all isn't necessary however, hair care was once a chore and now it brings me an unbelievable calm and joy so like you will hear often regarding hair do what works for you - this works for me, my hair and my mental health

Daily:
Moisturize with Beauty without Cruelty leave in conditioner
Seal with Gleau!!
Scalp massage (I often forget this step nowadays)
Wrap hair with a satin scarf and sleep on a satin pillowcase

(I don't have the time to co wash now so I don't but for a while I did mid week with Elucence moisture Balance Conditioner then condition with Silicon Mix (for ceramides and protein)

Weekly

Detangle – wide tooth/pick like comb

Pre Poo/Dry DC (Again due to time it’s also my dry DC (I don't DC with heat because although I try and use organic/natural products not all of them are and I don't want to open my pores to more chemicals)).

I layer these products in my hair in this order:
Aloe vera juice or gel (stimulates the scalp and helps neutralize the PH levels of the other products)
Reconstructor - mild protein weekly (I don't do any strong protein treatments)
biolage Cera repair (the week after a perm and every couple months) - ceramides are important
Conditioner(s) of choice - moisturizing with some protein
Wheat germ oil, Avocado oil and olive oil ( ceramides, shine, moisture and additonal stimulating benefits of these oils)
I cover with a couple plastic caps and leave on for a minimum of 30 minutes to several hours - never overnight as my hair seems to get more fragile if I do that.

Rinse - keeping my hair hanging down - never piled on top of my head and being careful not to tangle

Wash:
First lather with diluted elucence clarifying shampoo or Giovanni Triple Treat shampoo put in a squeeze bottle and applied to my roots, I part my hair with my hands and use the pads of my fingers to rub my scalp

Rinse

Second lather with elucence moisture shampoo applied to my hair - just smoothing over my hair again keeping my hair down and straight being careful not to tangle.

Rinse
Conditioner – Govanni Triple treat/Elucence Moisture Balance or Silicone Mix

Rinse – using the water to detangle (its usually still pretty detangled from my detangling before the pre poo

Final rinse, diluted Apple Cider Vinegar with cold water (I do not rinse it out)

Leave In - Spritz of water with Silk Amino Acids and Lavendar oil (SAA is a moisturizing protein, Lavender oil is stimulating), Nioxin Bliss, Beauty Without Cruelty leave in conditioner and Gleau!

Airdry with a headband smoothing my hair down as it dries. Next day I may flat iron if I am over 7 weeks post.

Relaxer

I'm still trying to figure out how long to stretch my relaxer I've gone 15 weeks the first to relaxers after starting my journey then 11. I start to get breakage after 7 weeks and if I really leave my hair alone I can stretch longer but as it grows I want to enjoy it more so I think 8-10 weeks will be it for me.

Trims

I’ve had one trim mid journey but I won’t be getting anymore until I reach my secondary goal of BSL or my ends start to show a lot of splits.

My ultimate goal is MBL mid 2012!!